| After living there for three short but sweet | | | | aforementioned Cumberland Trail on Signal |
| years, I learned that Chattanooga, or Chattie as I | | | | Mountain, or scores of other fun hiking trails on |
| affectionately call it, is a fantastic place to live and | | | | Lookout Mountain. We never got the chance to |
| visit. | | | | go, but Cloudland Canyon State Park-just over |
| Where to begin? For history buffs, there are | | | | the border in Georgia-is supposed to be |
| countless landmarks in the area, commemorating | | | | breathtakingly beautiful in an area referred to as |
| events that changed the course of American | | | | "God's Country." Trails there range from two to |
| history, from the Trail of Tears to the Civil War | | | | almost seven miles, and there's a 600-step |
| battles in and around Chattanooga. For families | | | | staircase for hikers making the trip to the bottom |
| with young children in tow, there's the spectacular | | | | of the park's gorge. |
| Tennessee Aquarium, the Creative Discovery | | | | Bold outdoors enthusiasts will be glad to know |
| Museum, Coolidge Park with its lovely fountain and | | | | that Chattanooga is considered the regional rock |
| antique carousel, and Ruby Falls-an underground | | | | climbing capital, and it attracts mountain bikers |
| waterfall reached by guided tour through narrow | | | | from all over. Prentice Cooper State Forest is one |
| caverns and passageways. For outdoor | | | | of many options for both of these activities. |
| enthusiasts, there's the promise of a place often | | | | Please, oh please, do not attempt to climb rocks |
| called the "Boulder, Colorado of the East;" rock | | | | without a guide. On water, the Ocoee River |
| climbing, fly fishing, cycling, hang gliding, hiking, | | | | offers the sought-after near-death rafting |
| rafting, and so much more await the adventurous. | | | | experience. Yes, I thought I was going to die on |
| What I'm offering here is an itinerary for a | | | | the upper Ocoee. Twice. But it's fun if you're into |
| three-day getaway to Chattanooga. It's an | | | | that kind of thing (jury is still out for me). Some |
| activity guide that has passed the test of many | | | | of the more endearing names of the Ocoee's |
| visits from our family and friends, and it includes | | | | Class IV+ rapids are "Broken Nose," "Diamond |
| our favorite places that we try to re-visit on our | | | | Splitter" and "Hell's Hole." Finally, those who aren't |
| trips back. Three days fill up quickly in | | | | interested in land or water activities can try hang |
| Chattanooga, so you should know that for every | | | | gliding off the side of Lookout Mountain. I couldn't |
| place that follows, there are at least five other | | | | bring myself to strap into a glorified kite, but two |
| alternative attractions or activities. Also, this | | | | friends from France did, and they said it was |
| itinerary assumes that you've awakened in | | | | chouette. |
| Chattanooga on day one. I recommend that you | | | | After a day spent in the great outdoors, a |
| wake up in the Bluff View Inn, found in the town's | | | | shower and a satisfying dinner are in order. As |
| popular Bluff View Arts District. | | | | your body will not want to stray too far from its |
| Bluff View Inn is perched overlooking the | | | | bed at the Bluff View Inn, stroll around the corner |
| Tennessee River, which flows below through | | | | to Tony's for an Italian dinner. The atmosphere is |
| downtown Chattanooga. Within a minute's walk | | | | one that forces you to linger long after the meal |
| from the inn (and that's not an exaggeration), | | | | is done, especially if you're lucky enough to score |
| there's the Hunter Museum of American Art, the | | | | a table on the second-floor terrace. A green salad |
| Houston Museum of Decorative Art, a sculpture | | | | with their roasted tomato tarragon dressing and |
| garden, a bocce ball court, an art gallery, three | | | | all of the pasta dishes are reliably delicious. |
| restaurants, a thirteen-mile exercise trail that | | | | Day Three: Lookout Mountain, Southside and |
| follows the river upstream to Lake Chickamauga, | | | | Downtown |
| and Walnut Street Bridge, one of the world's | | | | Between the hotel and Lookout Mountain lies |
| longest pedestrian bridges. | | | | Niedlov's Breadworks, which has amazing |
| Another lodging option that's relatively new to | | | | cinnamon rolls, muffins, scones-come to think of |
| Chattanooga is the Delta Queen steamboat, which | | | | it, everything at Niedlov's is good. The |
| retired to life as a floating boutique hotel. Hotel | | | | artisan-owners "love to knead and knead to love," |
| guests and tourists can board the Queen from | | | | and you can taste the baked-in passion. Give it a |
| Coolidge Park and bask in the brass nautical | | | | try for breakfast this morning. |
| history of it all. | | | | There are several roads that take you up to the |
| Day One: Signal Mountain and the North Shore | | | | top of Lookout Mountain; each one is scenic, so |
| Rembrandt's Café in the Bluff View Arts | | | | pick one for the ride up and another for the ride |
| District makes a great starting point in | | | | down. Once you're up there, take in the gorgeous |
| Chattanooga, so consider this hot-spot for | | | | views and mansions, especially those along West |
| breakfast on your first full day in the Scenic City. | | | | Brow Road. (This exploration of Lookout Mountain |
| Locals love and frequent this place just as much | | | | sounds a lot like the first day's Signal Mountain |
| as tourists. The display cases are full of breakfast | | | | itinerary; but if the residential area of Signal |
| and dessert pastries, chocolates, pies and cakes, | | | | Mountain is charming and accessible, Lookout |
| while the menu offers paninis, soups and salads. | | | | Mountain is caviar dreams. Each mountain is worth |
| For breakfast, you can't do better than an almond | | | | a visit as they offer different clues into |
| croissant. Take it outside and enjoy their | | | | Chattanooga's culture.) |
| gorgeous patio seating. | | | | Lookout's Point Park-not to be confused with |
| Next, head up to Signal Mountain, a ten-minute | | | | Signal Point Park-is a must as an easily accessible |
| drive from downtown Chattanooga. Our visitors | | | | part of the Lookout Mountain Battlefield. A small |
| particularly loved the "W" road that sharply zigs | | | | museum just across the street will explain the |
| and zags its way up the rocky side of the | | | | very Lord of the Rings-sounding "Battle Above |
| mountain-a vertical road if I've ever been on one. | | | | the Clouds" that took place on the mountain |
| Once you've made it to the top, consider driving | | | | during the Civil War. Another treasure on Lookout |
| north along East Brow Road for beautiful homes | | | | Mountain is the Reflection Riding Arboretum and |
| on the left, and a breathtaking view of the valley | | | | Botanical Garden, which offers driving and hiking |
| below on the right. Then, turn south on Highway | | | | trails through a bucolic setting of meadows, |
| 127 and head to the "old towne" area of Signal | | | | wildflowers, forest, ponds and creeks. |
| Point. The streets here are lined with quaint stone | | | | After a mountaintop morning, Mojo Burrito-at the |
| cottages and magnificent estates, and you can still | | | | foot of Lookout Mountain in the lovely historic |
| see the tracks of the streetcar that used to run | | | | neighborhood of St. Elmo-brings you back to earth |
| through this neighborhood. The area here was | | | | with tortillas wrapped around super fresh |
| developed at the turn of the twentieth century | | | | ingredients. Southern Star located in the Southside |
| as an escape from diseases, namely cholera and | | | | neighborhood also keeps it real with true southern |
| yellow fever, in the valley below. | | | | home cooking. Don't skip dessert-the banana |
| When you've had enough of the car and historic | | | | pudding leaves you speechless. |
| home viewing, take a rest stop at Signal Point | | | | While you're in the Southside neighborhood, there |
| Park. From this spot, you can look down on the | | | | are four shops that are very much worth a visit. |
| lush and verdant Tennessee River gorge and | | | | Revival is located inside Warehouse Row, and |
| forget that civilization is nearby. Park signage | | | | although I couldn't afford much from this store, I |
| explains that Signal Point was part of a signaling | | | | had fun just being in the presence of its |
| system used by Native Americans first, then | | | | greatness. Just like any luxury goods store, you |
| Union troops during the Civil War. Depending on | | | | can find table accessories by Juliska and pewter |
| your energy level at this point, you could embark | | | | by Match. But what sets this store in a league of |
| on a hike from the park. The Cumberland Trail, | | | | its own is a beautifully curated collection of home |
| part of the Great Eastern Trail, starts at this | | | | furnishings, from eighteenth century white leather |
| park, and it's a stunning walk through mountainside | | | | Italian chairs to modern Belgian coffee tables. You'll |
| woods. | | | | discover home design elements in Revival that |
| There are a couple of options for lunch on Signal | | | | you never knew you wanted. Shadow Box |
| Mountain, but I'd head back down the mountain | | | | Paperie on Main Street will make you put pen to |
| for lunch in the North Shore area. Two of our | | | | paper and renounce all forms of electronic |
| favorite spots were the River Street Deli for | | | | communication. They have other home |
| amazing muffulettas, Stromboli, and Brooklyn | | | | accessories, too, all wonderfully presented. For |
| accents; or Mercantino for an atmosphere that | | | | serious antique-lovers, Southside Antiques is an |
| can't be beat. And once you've parked near the | | | | essential stop-gorgeous corner cabinets, dining |
| action on the North Shore (that would be Frazier | | | | tables, antique books, and armoires. Finally, the |
| Avenue), you can leave your car behind for hours. | | | | Galleries at Southside, much like The Foyer in |
| Hit the boutiques after lunch, being sure not to | | | | Baton Rouge, is a collection of vendors under one |
| miss Blue Skies, Plum Nelly, and Sophie's. It is | | | | roof, selling gifts, accessories, art and antiques at |
| impossible to enter any one of these three stores | | | | many price points. |
| and leave empty-handed, so just give in. Treat | | | | In the late afternoon, head back to the inn to |
| yourself or a friend to vintage style, unique home | | | | park your car and take advantage of the amazing |
| and personal accessories, handmade jewelry, | | | | pedestrian activities in downtown Chattanooga. |
| glass, and ceramics. These three stores, plus the | | | | Visit the sculpture garden and spend time over |
| many other businesses along Frazier-including a | | | | the river on one of the Walnut Street Bridge |
| local bookstore, an outdoors outfitter, and art | | | | benches. The bridge was converted to pedestrian |
| galleries-are gift-givers heaven. | | | | use in 1993, and much like the Pont des Arts in |
| When you need a break from shopping, pick up a | | | | Paris, people can't get enough of bridge time. |
| treat from Clumpies Ice Cream and stroll over to | | | | Suspended above the Tennessee River, they |
| Coolidge Park overlooking the river. You'll be | | | | exercise, create art, gather for festivals, |
| surrounded by people of all ages as they play in | | | | commute to work on bike, and yes, they snuggle |
| the fountain, toss Frisbees and footballs, and relax | | | | here as if they were in Paris. |
| inside a wonderful urban green space. While there, | | | | Leave enough time before sunset to experience |
| you can see if there are any plays to catch during | | | | The Passage and Ross's Landing Plaza, a |
| your stay-the Chattanooga Theatre Centre sits | | | | Cherokee nation and Trail of Tears memorial |
| just on the edge of the park. | | | | located adjacent to the Tennessee Aquarium. The |
| For dinner, the Boathouse Rotisserie and Raw Bar | | | | Cherokee inhabited this area that would become |
| is a great choice, and it's only a five-minute car | | | | first Ross's Landing, then Chattanooga, until they |
| drive from downtown. They serve Louisiana | | | | were forced West on the Trail of Tears. |
| oysters and other great seafood (the wood-grilled | | | | Thousands died during the horrific journey. At this |
| tilapia is outstanding), and, oddly enough, their | | | | memorial, you'll find moving quotes by Cherokee |
| Mexican dishes-especially the quesadillas-are just | | | | and American leaders at the time of the native |
| as popular. If you have room for an appetizer, | | | | removal. |
| the Mexican shrimp cocktail is unforgettable. The | | | | For dinner on your last night in Chattanooga, you |
| Boathouse sits right on the Tennessee River, and | | | | may as well have a blow out. St. John's restaurant |
| they've got plenty of outdoor seating overlooking | | | | is as flawless a restaurant as I've ever |
| the water. | | | | experienced. Chef Daniel Lindley was nominated |
| Day Two: The Great Outdoors | | | | for the James Beard award this year and last, |
| A trip to Chattanooga without some kind of | | | | and you'll know why after just one meal at St. |
| outdoor adventure is a missed opportunity. It's | | | | John's. From his kitchen come the finest |
| kind of like going to New York City without seeing | | | | ingredients available, many of them organic and |
| a play-you've missed a key element of the local | | | | local, and the menu changes often to reflect |
| culture. Fuel up with a hearty breakfast from | | | | growing seasons. The current menu includes |
| Bluegrass Grill on Main Street. This family-owned | | | | handmade quail tortellini, Kobe beef steak, and |
| restaurant packs people in starting at 6:30 am for | | | | chocolate molten cake. The service is dreamy, |
| omelettes and tasty variations of hash. Load up | | | | the flat iron building is a beauty, and everyone |
| on carbs; you'll need them today. | | | | leaves happy. |
| For peace and quiet, a guided fly fishing trip is an | | | | And everyone leaves Chattanooga happy, though |
| excellent excursion, as is a nice-and-easy float | | | | I was also kicking, screaming and crying the day |
| down the Hiwassee River in an inflatable kayak or | | | | my husband and I said goodbye to our hilltop |
| raft. We also enjoyed walking the extensive trails | | | | North Chattanooga home. My husband says I'm |
| of Chickamauga Battlefield, part of the country's | | | | projecting, but I swear that even our dog misses |
| very first national military park. There's a | | | | Chattanooga. The pull of family and old friends |
| seven-mile auto tour of the battlefield, but on | | | | brought us home to Louisiana, and we are of |
| foot or on bike is the best way to experience the | | | | course glad to be back home among them, but |
| beauty and historical significance of this land. And | | | | we will be returning to Chattanooga as often as |
| the terrain here is relatively flat, a huge plus for | | | | we can for the rest of our lives. It's that kind of |
| those of us from elevation-challenged regions. | | | | place. |
| For the more adventurous, there's the | | | | |